welcome to the world of a non-decoupled, non-headless architecture. or should I say, welcome back.
This is why hydra.pretagov.com is a more sensible way forward.
so apparently what volto is is now called "decoupled" but not headless to make things more confusing. it's decoupled because it uses an api but it's not headless because it combines the frontend and editing UI into one thing which you customise.